Weinhandelshaus Scholzen

Parker - Luis Gutierrez 94,

Still showing a bit of toasty cedar, the 2017 Côtes du Roussillon Villages le Clos des Fées is otherwise a monument to concentration. Inky in hue, with bold aromas of boysenberry fruit, this blend of 50% Syrah, 20% each Carignan and Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre is nearly overwhelming in its intensity. Yes, the tannins are supple enough to make this approachable, but give it a couple of years in the cellar to resolve its focus and allow some complexity to develop. Right now, it's just embryonic and a bit monolithic as a result.

Former sommelier-turned-journalist and now winemaker Hervé Bizeul has emerged as one of the Roussillon's shining stars. Unencumbered by tradition and inspired by the great wines he's tasted, he's set out to show that Roussillon can make wines that rival the best in the world. His new cellars contain ranks of shiny steel tanks, yet, says Bizeul, "Technology is like money at the poker table, you need to have it to play, but it doesn't mean you win." He went on to say, "If you want to make great red wines, you don't need technology." When he first started, he made wines in an old garage, using barrels he purchased from DRC and Château l'Angelus. Bizeul maintains small stocks of older wines for sale to private customers and restaurateurs, so we were able to taste a few older vintages. The 2005 Le Clos des Fées was still amazingly young, and as it was reviewed not that long ago, I haven't bothered to re-review it. But consumers who are fortunate to have the 2007, or perhaps the 2005 La Petite Sibérie, should feel good about dipping into their stashes now. Apart from the region's traditional varieties, Bizeul has planted Cabernet Franc and Tempranillo, and his latest (highly successful!) project involves Pinot Noir. In short, this is one of the most exciting domaines in a region that is flexing its quality muscles. Bizeul has recently changed his American importer, so readers may have to find new retail sources, but he's optimistic that working with the Moueix-owned Duclot La Vinicole (offices in Bordeaux, New York and Los Angeles) will mean increased visibility in the long term.