Quinta do Vallado - Sociedade Agrícola, Lda. Vilarinho dos Freires 5050-364 - Peso da Régua | Portugal
Squires 93: The 20 Year Old Tawny, bottled in 2013, was aged in very old oak casks and vats. It is an old-vines field blend with residual sugar of 119 grams per liter. Opening with a big, big rush of sugar, this shows more focus and far more complexity than I sensed on the first whiff. The finish is crisp and laced with a bit of brandy. This isn't big and thick, but it seems far richer than it is given the finish and the aromatics. The aromatics are very powerful for a 20. The remarkably concentrated flavors on the finish also seem often to exceed what many 20s deliver. This is quite an exceptional 20 Year from many perspectives, but that finish is particularly exceptional. There were a mere 1,000 bottles of 500ml produced. As indicated near the end of the article accompanying these notes, the drinking windows here are just placeholders meaning a long, long time. Barring cork failures–these comes with a real cork–long-aged tawnies should last indefinitely if well stored. They will certainly outlive most of us.
93: Suave and silky-tasting, delivering complex, refined flavors of buttercream, toffee, dried apricot and pear. Light and airy on the finish, with a cleansing minerality and hints of sea salt. Drink now. 83 cases made. –KM