CONCEITO VINHOS, LDA. – Lg. Madalena, 10 – 5155-022 Cedovim – V. N. Foz Côa, Douro, Portugal
Squires 94: The 2014 Estate Branco is seen now for the first time in the USA. It is an old vines field blend (80-year-old vines, 600 meters altitude) fermented in used French oak barrels (second, third and fourth use) and aged for ten months. It comes in at 13% alcohol. It was bottled unfiltered in June, 2015. If you want to know what you get by stepping up in price from the lovely Contraste, that is pretty clear. First, there is a big stylistic difference. The Contraste is a fresher, lighter and steelier white. This is a bit lusher and more concentrated. They both handle their oak well, but the wood influences the texture here a bit more, and perhaps for the better. Ignoring comparisons, this is a bit on the piercing and steely side as well in its youth. It seems quite brilliant, with enlivening acidity, even if a bit unevolved just now. It has a rather long finish and a tightly-wound feel. As it warmed, its beautiful fruit kept bubbling up and the wine became ever more graceful. That said, I wouldn't drink it right now. Bottled a few months back and shipped even more recently as of this tasting, it really needs some settle-down time. It is, however, encouraging that it shows better now than it did in Porto last summer and it showed even better on the second day for this tasting. It looks like a super Estate Branco that should age well and continue improving for several years. It may yet be entitled to an uptick, but let's be just a bit conservative just now. I'm not quite sure it has the weight of the 2011 or 2013, but its energy and crisp demeanor may make up for that.
Produkte dieses Herstellers
Projekt zwischen Conceito und Barbeito ( Madeira). Restsüß. ...